Long hike to Havasupai reveals a heaven on earth (Part 2)
After hiking the Havasu Falls Trail in Arizona, I’ve concluded there are few places on the planet as beautiful.
Where else can you see at least five amazing falls, with water pounding down against red rock into blue-green pools, all just a short hike from one another?
Getting there had been a dream of mine for many years, even before I was diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease.
(See my video.) (Jump to hike stats.)
After the Unshakable Husband and I won a Havasupai camping and hiking permit in the annual lottery, we did the happy dance, thanked our lucky stars and got serious about preparing.
Nestled between the walls of the Grand Canyon just south of the national park’s border, the Havasupai trail area is a hiker’s paradise.
But getting to and from the campground challenges even the most fit hikers. For the 10-mile trek to the campground, many choose to carry a backpack with everything they’ll need for up to four days. Others opt to hire mules for the load.
The elevation change is 2,500 feet over the 20-mile round trip, with most of it in the first 2 miles (going down) and the last 2 miles (going back up).
We decided to carry our own backpacks.
Considering my Parkinson’s, was it a risky choice?
Possibly. I mean, my PD has come with a range of symptoms like tremors, fatigue and sleep troubles. I was taking medication every four hours.
Besides that, both of us had recently crossed over whatever threshold and landed in our 60s.
That’s a lot of extra stuff to deal with on a backpacking trip.
(Spoiler alert.) We did make it there and back up to the canyon rim, but it took every ounce of energy I had.
The trailhead is on the edge of the Grand Canyon rim about an hour away from Peach Springs, the nearest town. The Unshakable Husband and I stayed at Grand Canyon Caverns Inn the night before our journey. That’s also where we picked up our permits and wristbands, which we were required to wear at all times.
After driving to the trailhead we found the parking lot was full, but parking along the road was OK.
We were off and hiking! Switchback after endless switchback brought us to the canyon floor.
That left us 8 more miles of gradual descent to the campsite area. The flatter terrain was rather pleasant, in contrast!
Parkinson’s hiking tip
I don’t carry poles for every hike I take, but I was glad I had them for the steep switchbacks. They really did steady me. And poles help shift some of your weight from your tired-out legs to your upper body.
The trail had interesting sights to help take my mind off my achy muscles. At times, I felt as if it were a dream in technicolor: red rocks, blue sky, green flora.
Then a “hot spot” on my heel or strap digging into my shoulder would jolt me to the reality that my dream comes with pain.
Adrenalin kept me going, but so did frequent water and rest breaks in the shade of the high canyon walls.
Parkinson’s hiking tip
People with PD on certain medications often have trouble regulating their temperature, and hiking in a desert is dangerous if you don’t bring enough water or take frequent water breaks. Yes, water is heavy to carry, so find the sweet spot in determining how much to pack.
We reached the village of Supai, where members of the Havasupai Tribe make their home.
The “people of the blue-green waters” open their land to adventurers and keep the trails in good condition. In turn they get a boost to their economy. The rules set by this sovereign nation call for respecting the town’s people and refraining from photographing them.
After our walk through Supai, we still had a 2-mile descent to the campground.
On the way we stopped to view our first waterfall, the iconic Havasu Falls. The blue-green water didn’t disappoint.
The campground had two important things: a give-and-take fuel canister table so we could cook our food, and a fresh-water spring, where we could fill unlimited bottles with tasty water.
Down by the creek, the best campsites were already taken (a reminder that we take our time hiking). Even so, we found a site at the campground’s far end that was next to Havasu Creek and had a picnic table and a place to hang the hammock.
Just a 10-minute walk away was Mooney Falls. Some people are content to view the falls from the top, but others make the climb to the bottom. Since the Husband and I have experience with rock climbing, we opted to take the route down to the pool. It was a precarious descent at times, but I felt safe if I went slow and made every step and handhold count.
We slept fairly well the first night – as good as anyone could in a 2.6-pound tent. The mid-May weather was temperate and the stars were out.
Day 2 was our chance to find as many waterfalls as we could. And boy, did we ever!
First was Fifty Foot Falls, where we joined other swimmers in the vast pool that connected three different falls.
Less than a mile away we discovered Little Navajo Falls, which was anything but little.
Finally we looked for Hidden Falls – aptly named because we almost missed it.
Photos are nice but don’t come close to seeing these places in person. It’s hard to put in writing how being surrounded by all this beauty made me feel. Anywhere I looked my heart sang!
Permit holders can stay at the campground for up to four days. There was plenty more to see, including Beaver Falls, which was 3 miles away. But we had a family wedding to get to! So on Day 3 we got an early start on our hike back to the trailhead.
On our way to the campsite we had noticed litter left on some parts of the trail. Who does that? Fortunately we had a spare plastic bag, and the Husband had it filled with trash by the time we reached the switchbacks.
Oh, those switchbacks.
It was beyond strenuous.
We could see where we had to go. No comfort there.
It took sheer willpower to put one foot in front of another as I made turn after turn. Despite our early start, the sun was up and heating the landscape relentlessly. There were a few shady spots we could rest in, but sometimes they were already occupied by other shade-seekers.
In total, the trip back took about six hours. Once up top and after a few cheers, we found our car. Next up would be a nap and juicy burger in the first town we saw.
Is this hike for you?
Click here for Part 1 to find out how to get a permit, how mules can tote your stuff, staying at the lodge, how to prepare physically, and cautions for people withParkinson’s.
Above all, check with your medical professionals before you decide.
Hike info
PD difficulty level (see chart): Very difficult
Distance: 20 miles roundtrip
Elevation change: about 2,500 feet down and then back up on the return trip
Trailhead location: Hualapai Hilltop is at the end of Indian Road 18, 60 miles from the turnoff from Route 66 (which is 7 miles east of Peach Springs, Arizona).
Cell phone service: spotty in Supai village
Bathrooms: at trailhead and campsites
Emergency medical support: There is none in the village, but helicopter shuttles run on certain days from the village to medical facilities.
Costs: $455 per person for a campsite/hiking permit
Insider tip: If you don’t feel like cooking dinner, look for the “Fry Bread Tent” run by people from the village. It’s just off the trail not far from Havasu Falls. The bread comes with a variety of toppings to choose from. Think of it as a food truck where no trucks are allowed. Bring cash.
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