Hiking to Havasupai with Parkinson’s? I said ‘yes’ (Part 1)
For years I dreamed of seeing Havasupai. Its picturesque waterfalls and red rock walls on the floor of the Grand Canyon have attracted adventure seekers for decades.
I finally had the chance to hike down to this heaven on earth when the Unshakable Husband and I scored a coveted campsite permit through a lottery. (More on the permits below.) Elated, we began making plans to go.
But not so fast. I had been diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease five years earlier. I won’t lie: I was nervous about symptoms that, for the time being, were mostly just annoying to me but not really limiting.
A lot could happen with a progressive disease during the five months until our trek. What if the symptoms got worse and became a safety risk?
After weighing all sides, the Husband and I agreed we both would go, as long as my capabilities remained stable. It was a bucket-list kind of thing, and those are getting more complicated for us to push into the future.
Is it for you?
If Havasupai is your dream, too, read on for info to help you decide if you should go — taking your Parkinson’s with you.
This post briefly describes:
- the Havasupai land and tribe
- how to get a reservation
- what to expect with hiking
- how mules can tote your stuff
- staying at the lodge
- how to prepare physically
- cautions for people with PD.
(Part 2 of this series details my experience hiking Havasupai.)
The Havasupai tribe
The town of Supai, Arizona, and surrounding land are owned by a tribe called Havasupai, meaning “the people of the blue-green water.” Its members keep the trail in shipshape and welcome adventurers, who support the local economy.
Since they are a sovereign nation, the Havasupai make their own laws.
Those include strict rules for guests, including wristbands for hikers, who must carry permit papers at all times, and a ban on photography in the village.
They are proud of their beautiful land, and this is their way of allowing others to see it with less disruption to their lives.
The hike logistics
Access to the reservation and Havasu Falls is an 8-mile hike (one way) to Supai village, followed by an additional 2-mile jaunt to the campsites. There are no paved roads to Supai, and no vehicles are allowed beyond the trailhead at Hualapai Hilltop.
Except for the beginning and the end, the trek has little change in elevation along the floor of the canyon.
Getting a permit
Backpacking through Havasupai is one thing, but getting through the permit process is a feat of its own. It starts by creating an account here. Once you have an account, you will be on the email list and get reminders about registration deadlines.
As of this post, there’s no word on when signups for 2026 will begin, but in past years the website has opened on Feb. 1 at 8 a.m. Arizona time.
A “presale” lottery for a portion of the permits has been offered the last few years, running from mid-December to early January. Watch the website for news on that.
For our May 2025 trip, we won the permit through the lottery. We had to pay $20 each just to enter it, with no guarantee of getting one. I had no idea how many people we were competing with – so if you’re good with odds, it won’t help you!
Prices in 2025 for campground reservations, which include the permit, were as steep as a climb up the canyon: $455 per person for up to three nights. Refunds are rarely given.
Other options
The Lodge
Maybe the long hike in one day is not your thing. Even in the early stages, Parkinson’s wreaks havoc on bodies that once worked pretty well.
If you prefer a room over a tent, you can rent one at the Lodge in Supai. Many adventurers do that, then go on shorter day hikes in search of waterfalls.
In 2025, a three-night stay at the lodge cost $2,277 per room, which fits four people,
Pack mules
Perhaps you want to hike, but not while carrying all your food, tent, and gear on your back. Mules and their owners are happy to assist. It’s $400 per mule for a round trip, and you can “sublet” a portion of your mule if you don’t reach the weight limit.
Helicopter transports
Some visitors take a helicopter in and out of the village. But transport is on a limited, first-come, first-served basis and may not meet all accessibility needs. The cost in 2025 was $150 each way, but it changes.
Considering the risks
Having Parkinson’s can make any travel complicated. It’s difficult to track your meds. Sleep is elusive and fatigue is pervasive. Heat can mess with body temperature regulation in people with PD.
For those with health challenges like Parkinson’s, this warning on the website’s FAQ is especially pertinent:
There are no public health facilities in the village of Supai. In the event of an injury, it may take many hours or even days to get treatment or be transported out of the canyon. … In case of an emergency, helicopter transportation is necessary and the financial cost will be high and family members will not be taken with the patient.
Make sure to talk to your doctor. I don’t mean to scare anyone, but whether to attempt this excursion is no light decision. Even if you don’t have Parkinson’s.
Preparing yourself
I had a few months to ramp up my exercise routine before this hike. I was lucky to be in decent shape already, but I upped my minutes on the stair stepper. I also walked up and down the neighborhood sled hill wearing a heavy backpack. “Rucking,” as it’s called, is excellent preparation.
Random advice
When to go: Be aware that the summer monsoon season (usually July through September) brings an increased chance of rain and flash flooding. In August 2024, and again in June 2025, massive floods caused emergency evacuations.
What to bring: There’s a good list to start with on the tribe’s website.
Why to go: Everywhere we turned, we saw the best of what nature offers. To me, a physical challenge + such beauty = a bit of paradise.
Part 2: Our experience hiking in Havasupai.
