A tough, rewarding White Mountains trek to Lafayette peak
The White Mountains are a beautiful range in New Hampshire with trails for all abilities of hikers -– probably tipped more to “difficult” due to steep elevations and rock-filled trails.
I was four years out from my Parkinson’s diagnosis, and luckily I still had the energy and balance to for hikes like those I did pre-Parkinson’s. So the Mount Lafayette via Franconia Ridge trail, a loop that includes three peaks more than 4,000 feet high, beckoned me to the Whites, as the range is called.
I imagined this trail would sit squarely in the “very difficult” column of my ratings chart. That turned out to be correct.
(Jump to trail stats.)
For one thing, it was May, and in mountain-speak that means chilly with a chance of spring snowflakes. There would also be 3,800 feet of elevation. The gain was spread over more than 8 miles, but that’s still a lot of uphill.
Parkinson’s hiking tip
This could be a wonderful hike for a person in Stage 1 of their Parkinson’s journey, but only if they have a doctor’s OK and experience with mountain hiking — and if balance isn’t an issue. Each of us should know our limits. There are less-risky yet lovely treks in the White Mountains. Like this one.
The Unshakable Husband was jazzed, and I psyched myself up for hours of fabulous hiking. This would be epic!
Our hotel in Lincoln, New Hampshire, was about 10 minutes south of the trailhead on Highway 3. After a good-enough night’s sleep, we were at the parking lot around 9 a.m. Had it been summer, the lot may have been filled by that time.
The first trail, called Falling Waters, would take us to peak No. 1, Little Haystack Mountain.
The path started out relatively smooth and flat. But that didn’t last long: Up we went!
Sometimes there was scrambling over rocks. Blue blazes marked the way.
The route to Haystack included some of the things I really love on a hiking trail: a rushing creek, multiple waterfalls, moss-covered rocks. Even without much spring foliage showing yet, it was a treat for the eyes and ears.
We also fancy-footed our way through five water crossings — but not fancy enough, as my boot got wet. (Bring extra socks.)
These dudes made it look easy, leaping from rock to rock like gazelles, sans trekking poles!
I was glad for the one pole that I brought. It was an essential on this trail.
We found ourselves in a piney forest with a rocky and muddy trail. And then we found snow. The spring melt still had a ways to go at this elevation.
Fortunately, we had done our homework for this hike and decided to bring microspikes.
They are little metal spikes on chains that stretch over your shoe or boot to keep you from slipping.
Microspikes work on both snow and ice, and they definitely were helpful for the way up.
Parkinson’s hiking tip
There’s no shame in resting! Even if those you hike with don’t seem to need it.
Take breaks as often as needed – without getting too comfortable or letting your muscles get cold.
The steep climbing was like being on a stair-stepper set on infinity. After five hours of hiking, we made it to the top of Little Haystack Mountain (elev. 4760 ft).
On the peak, we had a snack and rested a few minutes, taking in the view.
The peaks of the Whites are often surrounded by clouds and fog. Apparently, getting a clear, sunny day happens only when the weather gods are feeling especially merciful.
It wasn’t sunny for us, but it was clear enough to see for miles.
Next was the Franconia Ridge trail, which would take us north to Mt. Lincoln and then on to Mt. Lafayette. Ridge trails go between peaks and usually descend a bit, then go back up to the next mountaintop.
It’s nerve wracking to look at a ridge trail from a mountain peak. It looks like a series of rocks that you have to step on with monstrous drop-offs right next to you. Like being on a 1,000-foot-high balance beam.
But ridge trails aren’t as bad once you get on them. They are plenty wide.
Still, the drop-offs are there.
But so are sweeping views on both sides.
The Franconia Ridge is part of the famous Appalachian Trail that goes from Georgia to Maine. White blazes let you know you’re on the AT.
We reached the top of Lincoln (elev. 5,089 ft). Snow started blowing, but it was blessedly short-lived. Pictured below, Mt. Lafayette, the tallest of our three White Mountain peaks, is behind me.
We reached Lafayette (elev. 5,249 ft), as our hike time hit seven hours. The view from the top was amazing.
Parkinson’s hiking tip
By now I had gone through one Parkinson’s medication cycle, and it was past time for another dose. I brought the pills I would need and kept them in a secure place.
Make a mental note of where you stash them so you don’t have to empty the backpack!
On the trip down, the plague of snow-covered trails was back. We knew the gig:
- Dig out microspikes from backpack.
- Apply to boots.
- Walk very carefully.
No. 3, of course, slowed us down considerably, aside from the fact that we were getting pretty tired.
Near the bottom we came to Greenleaf Hut, which, when it’s open in the summer season, offers snacks, bathrooms and fresh water. A spigot outside was working, so we topped off our water bottles.
From there we followed signs for Old Bridle Path, which led us about 2.5 miles back to the parking lot. It also was very rocky and slow going. I tried desperately to shut out thoughts of “Are we there yet?” by putting on ear buds and listening to some tunes.
Finally, we reached the end of the trail, where two “privies” seemed to stand sentry to greet us after our long journey. We had arrived! We had finished the loop.
In the White Mountain range, there are 48 mountains over 4,000 feet, or “4,000-footers.” Some climbing enthusiasts set a goal to reach the top of all 48.
We made it to three of them. I’m feeling pretty good about that.
Hike info
PD difficulty level (see chart): very difficult
Distance: 8.6 miles in a loop
Elevation gain: 3,815 feet
Trailhead location: 8.2 miles north of Lincoln, N.H., on Hwy. 3
Bathrooms: outhouses at trailhead
Emergency medical support: urgent care facility in Lincoln
Costs: there may be a parking fee, depending on the lot
Road access to trailhead: trail starts from parking lot
Insider tip: White Mountains are known for their fast-changing weather. The highest peak in the range is Mount Washington, where the fiercest winds in the nation have been clocked. Wear clothing in layers, and don’t forget warm gloves during the off season.
Looks awesome, I need to go to the White Mountains someday!
Totally worth the trip!