Mount Kilimanjaro beckons. You’ve hired a guide, you’ve paid the fees, you’ve trained, and you’re about to embark on the trek of your life. What will it be like?
(Note: This is the second of two parts. Part 1 is here.)
I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro 2½ years after a Parkinson’s diagnosis. At the time, my symptoms were controlled by medication and not noticeable to others.
But I knew someday my symptoms wouldn’t be so mild, and that’s what pushed me toward climbing “Kili.”
And I am glad I chose this adventure, in which seven family members and I not only survived mostly unscathed but were able to reach the summit together.
Here is our story, told simply in photos and captions. Following it you can read the extra considerations for hikers with Parkinson’s. Then, think about a Kilimanjaro trek for yourself!
We flew Ethiopian Airlines to Kilimanjaro International Airport in Tanzania and were greeted by our outfitters. The ride to the hotel took more than an hour and offered our first glimpse of the mountain. Next morning, another van took our group to a staging area where dozens of other climbers were waiting for their turn to start. We chose the Lemosho route to the top and would spend eight days on the mountain. The longer route would benefit a hiker with Parkinson’s or other mobility challenges.Our group had adventurers ranging in age from 25 to 73, with various backgrounds in hiking and climbing. Do our big smiles show confidence? Hope? Or are they masking fear of the unknown? Regardless, we were ready!We hiked deep into the forest, the first of several ecosystems the Lemosho trail passes through. After three hours we reached the first camp. Our porters, who were with us the entire trek, had tents up and waiting for us.Speaking of the porters, at one point we had an unofficial “meet and greet” so they could talk with us and we could learn each others’ names.The next day we continued hiking. Sometimes we ran into other groups hoping to summit Kilimanjaro. One had 30 climbers!Top left: Our camp cooks were always ready for us. No Michelin stars here, but the food was satisfying. Top right: The next ecosystem was the moorland, with beautiful plant species I’d never seen before. Bottom: We got used to the routine. Wake up, eat breakfast and get ready to hit the trail. Hike for hours. Arrive back for dinner. Play a game or just chill. Go to bed early.
Meanwhile, the Kilimanjaro porters carried all the supplies, even the kitchen chairs. They were unbelievably efficient.We came to the Barranco Wall, a difficult section of the Lemosho route. Even with the experience I had scrambling up rocks, and I found it very challenging. Those newer to climbing were able to make it to the top by slowing their pace and getting a hand from the guides. Trekking poles do you no good here.Speaking of guides, here are two of ours. Shout-outs to assistants Emmanuel and Godlove. (Joel was our head guide. He is pictured in Part 1.)We continued upward to the alpine desert, the third ecosystem on Mount Kilimanjaro. The air was thin and we were breathing harder. I couldn’t imagine trying to do this trip in only four days like the die-hards do, with little chance to acclimate.The sixth day was our push to the summit! We tried to take a two-hour, late-night nap but had little success. At midnight we gathered, layered up, forced down food, and donned our headlamps. This would be a 12- to 14-hour trek. Adrenaline would have to pull us through.We could see other groups ahead of us on the switchbacks. Here, my nephew Tim fights sleep during a rest time.I didn’t take many photos during the night because the climb required all the mental and physical energy I had. I literally had to think about each step and every oxygen-deprived breath that I took.
But views like this lifted my spirits. I could feel the sun’s warmth almost immediately.We were above the clouds! The last stretch along the ridge toward Uhuru Peak, 19,341 feet, was excruciatingly long. Near the top, we rested while the guides gave us straight hot water to drink. No chocolate, no tea — and it never tasted so good! At 9:30 a.m. we reached the summit, laughing, crying, whooping it up.Our trip down seemed endless, though it took only a day and a half. Once at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, the guides and porters performed traditional Tanzanian songs as part of a celebration of our success. We thanked them and gave every one their well-deserved tips.
Extra considerations for those living with Parkinson’s
Stick to your medication schedule best you can. It can be challenging making the transition in a flight to new time zone. Try mapping it out on paper.
Bring hiking poles for balance and for back and neck support.
If you’ve booked a trip and you become overly stressed about going, or if a last-minute crisis pops up, don’t go. Negotiate a change in dates.
Know your limits. Tell someone you’re with, or a guide, if you’re having trouble keeping up. The guides have seen it all, including people with Parkinson’s disease, and won’t be fazed.
Finally, consider a Parkinson’s fundraiser. I decided to do this only two weeks before we left. I emailed people I knew who I hoped would be able to contribute. Some of them learned for the first time that I had Parkinson’s. The effort and their generosity led to more than $3,500 in research funds for the Michael J. Fox Foundation.
Now that I look back on how difficult the climb was, I’m asking myself: How much did my Parkinson’s symptoms slow me down, compared to if I didn’t have Parkinson’s?
Tough to tell. I was exhausted some days, but so were the non-Parkinson’s people I was hiking with.
You can make yourself crazy analyzing things like this.
Want to see the movie?
Here’s a link to a documentary of our experience, created by my nephew Tim.
I’m so impressed with your drive and determination!
Thank you, Becky! So much of it is mindset over matter.