Toughing it out on a hike to the very top of Maine
It’s time to get serious. As in a seriously tough hike, not just for people with Parkinson’s but for anyone.
Maine is the setting of this beautiful 10-mile out-and-back trek. With the three other “high pointers” in my hiking group, I had checked off many of the more challenging state high points, but we had yet to conquer Mount Katahdin. Its Baxter Peak (elev. 5,267) would be my 39th high point.
But to do it we would have to negotiate a rock-strewn trail, face steep inclines, scramble over huge boulders, and navigate through thick fog. We were psyched.
For some moral support, Mr. Unshakable and I invited our daughter and son-in-law – also avid hikers – to come along.
Meanwhile, the coronavirus had the rest of the world locked down. In July 2020, it felt subversive to be having an exciting adventure.
In reality, hiking outdoors was the ultimate way to be social and distanced.
Parkinson’s tip
I had been diagnosed with Parkinson’s six months earlier, just weeks before the pandemic hit. By summer, my doctor had me taking a medication that relieved my tremors enough to function like a person who still has all their dopamine. Balance for me didn’t seem to be an issue, and my arms, legs and back were still feeling strong, albeit stiff. Without those abilities, this hike would have been dangerous to attempt.
The very strenuous Hunt Trail would take us to Maine’s highest point. We chose that over another route that included a scary ridge called Knife Edge. No thanks.
The Hunt route also happens to be the home stretch, er, “northern terminus,” of the Appalachian Trail.
(Alas, such cruelty by whoever designed the AT! Requiring this final battle of mind over body after months of continuous exertion doesn’t seem right.)
We flew into Boston and drove to Millinocket, Maine, the town nearest the trailhead. Our Airbnb there had comfy beds. But if comfy beds could laugh, they probably were snickering as we dragged ourselves out the door before dawn the next day.
Cars were already in the parking lot at Katahdin Stream Campground, where the Hunt Trail starts. We were prepared: Weeks before, we had gotten a parking reservation online from Baxter State Park.
The six of us topped off our water bottles and then headed out in the early light.
The smells of the forest were almost tangible. There’s something about daybreak that brings out nature’s best scents. For those who can smell well.
The path got rocky quickly and I was glad for my ankle-supportive boots.
The path also got steep pretty quickly. We would be fighting gravity for 4,200 feet in 5.2 miles. If you do the math, that’s quite a slope.
A small wooden plank-bridge marked the first mile.
The waterfall was a nice bonus.
After about two miles came the fun part. No sarcasm there, because I’ve always loved scrambling over boulders. All the large muscle groups of the body are used when you’re on all fours, and to me that’s a good workout. Reaching for handholds and finding that just-right place to put your foot is oh so satisfying.
Climbing is life.
I should get the t-shirt.
It took a couple of hours to get past the boulders – up and over, down and around.
(Kind of like the ant that just clambered over my computer keyboard, but it had a definite leg-count advantage.)
We were starting to see some stunning views, something else that keeps me going when the going gets tough.
Parkinson’s tip
Rest a lot here. This is strenuous even if you’re in good shape. Pay extra attention to your body’s needs while focusing on this part of the hike. It may be hard to measure, but Parkinson’s messes with fatigue levels even early into a diagnosis. Fatigue is often one of the early signs of PD.
We came to the “Gateway,” a difficult and somewhat treacherous final push before the boulders give way to a relatively flat field.
Shrouded in fog, at times we struggled to keep on the path, which was set among large rocks and alpine flora. But we knew the general direction and kept an eye out for the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail that were painted on rocks. Those reassured us that we were still headed to the top.
We rejoiced when the fog cleared and we could see the peak ahead of us!
There was some more uphill climbing, but soon we reached the top, where the iconic sign sat ready to be photographed with six happy people.
Just as we were smiling for the camera, up came a couple who were finishing their months-long AT journey! We felt honored to witness their joy at such an accomplishment, and we celebrated the moment with them before starting our trip back down the mountain. Total hiking time: 11 hours.
An important note about going down: This is when most hiker injuries happen. Especially on the big boulders, take your time making sure each step or movement is secure.
Don’t let the day’s success melt away due to a broken bone or worse.
Hike info
PD difficulty level (see chart): very difficult
Distance: 10.4 miles roundtrip
Elevation gain: about 4,200 feet
Trailhead location: 64 Balsam Drive, Millinocket, Maine
Bathrooms: at the trailhead
Emergency medical support: Millinocket Regional Hospital is 25 miles from the trailhead
Costs: parking varies; check here
Road access to trailhead: enter Baxter Park and follow signs
Insider tip: If the weather is rainy or winds are gusty, choose another day. Scrambling over wet rocks and being in high places with high winds is dangerous.
Thanks to Jon, Megan and Bronson for contributing photos.
Such a great hike. Thanks for the tips!
You’re welcome! Few hikes have so much variety in the landscape.
what an interesting hike. And what a great accomplishment for you Colleen! Way to go! I admire your drive to keep doing what you love!
Thank you! I expect that things will get harder, not easier, so I appreciate the encouragement. We all need more of that.