Huayna Picchu, that mountain in Peru? I said yes. (Part 2)
Visiting Machu Picchu, while spectacular, may not be enough for some hikers who love high places.
Huayna Picchu, the mountain often shown in photos rising up behind the famous Peruvian ruins, is calling their name.
And reaching the 8,920-foot peak requires a climb up some 2,100 steps.
(For Part 1, click here.)
I heard the call of the mountain, along with the Unshakable Husband, his brother Bryan, and his brother’s wife, Becky.
Stairs all the way up to the top? How hard could that be?
The more I researched, though, the more I realized this would be no ordinary stair climb. Steep steps carved out of rocks that are frequently slippery from rain and scary-looking drop-offs close to them would challenge anyone, but especially someone with Parkinson’s disease.
My own Parkinson’s symptoms were starting to, shall we say, blossom since my diagnosis nearly three years previous. Would my foot tremor get in the way? And what about balance? I’d been working on that by practicing yoga, but there are no steep drop-offs next to my yoga mat.
That’s not to mention the high altitude and all its challenges. We’d be breathing hard and moving slowly.
Nevertheless, I found myself swept up in the excitement of a chance to reach the top of Huayna Picchu and to view Machu Picchu from a perspective most visitors don’t get.
Getting tickets
With the rise of Machu Picchu’s popularity (it was named one of the Seven New Wonders of the World in 2007), Peruvian leaders started limiting the number of tickets sold each day. Tickets to climb Huayna Picchu were even harder to get.
The four of us started planning months before our September trip, and, with the help of our touring company, we were lucky enough to nab timed-entry tickets to both Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu.
We were jazzed. Each of us started training for it in our own ways. I spent more time on the stair-stepper at the gym, and I hiked up and down the local sled hill for some Midwest elevation.
Once in Peru at the sites, we toured the Machu Picchu ruins in the morning. (Details in Part 1.) Then we made our way to the Huayna Picchu trailhead. Almost immediately, the first set of steps welcomed us.
Parkinson’s tip
Many climbers use local guides for their climb. Hiring a private guide turned out to be a good decision, though it added to our costs.
Edwin had the experience to gauge the pace we could handle and encouraged us to keep moving with confidence. As a bonus, he was a decent photographer when we needed one.
Going up
We went slowly as Edwin led us upward.
I was reminded of when I participated in a stair-climbing fundraiser inside a skyscraper back home. There were a lot of steps then, but at least they were even. This mountain’s steps were varied in every dimension and coated with mist. So we really had to watch our feet.
Parkinson’s tip
Trekking poles may or may not be helpful. If you are used to having them, then yes, bring them –- but you should also bring a doctor’s note proving they are needed. The poles must have rubber tips; metal is not allowed. I would suggest stowing one or both of them for the portions of the trail where cables and handrails will aid you. If you are fairly steady on your feet, you might be better off without poles.
The route is often called the “Stairs of Death.” Don’t let the name send you running back down. I found that a half dozen people have indeed died on the Inca Trail, at Machu Picchu or on Huayna Picchu in the past 25 years, and some of the accidents could have been avoided. There are risks and perils with any hike, and stats like that are not out of the ordinary for outdoor adventures.
Still, it gives a hiker something to think about (as it should).
There were sections, including a small tunnel, where crawling with our hands and feet seemed to work best.
After about 45 minutes we were near the top. We saw a few ruins of ancient structures, as well as terraces that were likely used for agriculture.
Parkinson’s tip
If you have vertigo, a strong fear of heights (a mild fear is healthy), claustrophobia, or an intolerance for high-altitude treks, this is not the hike for you. However, if your balance and gait are steady, you’ve prepared yourself physically, and you like challenging hikes, then you could be a candidate. Hiring a trained guide from a reputable company will make a big difference.
Our group was close to the summit. We stopped for a photo at a photo-op spot, then continued on to the top.
Reaching the peak required some fancy footwork and maneuvering around boulders. The exposure wasn’t bad, but the rain was more steady and made everything slippery.
Finally we reached the summit, and it felt great. We waited our turn to sit together on a big boulder with the view behind us. It made for a great shot of Machu Picchu. That is, when the clouds weren’t obscuring it.
Going down
Edwin led us back the same way we came up, although there is an option for a different, slightly longer route to the bottom. We were extra careful on the way down. The rain had stopped and the rocks steps were less slick, but we knew the stats: There’s a greater chance of injury when hiking down a mountain than when going up.
About two hours after our start, we were back at the trailhead.
Should you go if you have Parkinson’s disease?
Only you can decide, preferably with the help of your medical professionals. You know your body’s capabilities. It’s a physically demanding climb in high altitude, but vigorous training will give you confidence to help carry you through.
Though the trail is less than 3 miles to the top and back, there is exposure to falls. Hiking near drop-offs takes a psychological toll, so know your freak-out limits. Often, I just kept my gaze on the stairs in front of me, and that helped.
I was definitely tired as the adrenaline wore off. Fortunately there was plenty of time to doze off on the train ride back to our hotel.
For someone like me who loves to “reach the top,” climbing Huayna Picchu was an invigorating addition to a bucket list kind of experience in Peru.
Hike info
PD difficulty level (see chart): difficult
Distance: 2.5 miles roundtrip
Elevation gain: about 1,000 feet
Trailhead location: a 10-minute walk from Machu Picchu sanctuary entrance
Bathrooms: near the main gate. Have 2 soles (Peruvian money unit) ready.
Costs: it depends on your touring company. We used Exoticca, which contracted with Condor Travel in Peru.
Emergency medical support: there’s little support for serious injuries or ailments, even in the nearby town of Aguas Calientes. Buy travel insurance in case of expensive transport costs.
Insider tip: The site is limited to only 400 climbers per day. Seriously, plan way ahead. Many months. Aim for the dry season, from late spring to early fall.
(For Part 1 on visiting Machu Picchu with Parkinson’s, click here.)
Many thanks to Jon, Bryan, and Becky for the use of their photos, and to Edwin for patiently taking many photos for us.
